Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Denali in the Winter

Oh, my goodness, Denali in the winter is Beautiful!

After getting my house all set up after the move and taking one full weekend to do nothing but sleep (Feb 14) I decided it was time for a road trip. I had studded tires put on my car and headed out of town on Feb 21. The plan was to go to Talkeetna, about 2 hours northeast of Anchorage out Hwy 3, the Park Highway. Because the roads were clear, I was almost to Talkeetna before I knew it. There was still so much of the day left that I decided to continue on to Denali National Park http://www.nps.gov/dena/ to take in the Winter Celebration.

The drive was beautiful and I felt, for the first time, how it is that people who move here for a short time would want to stay for much longer. I continued adding to my mental list of things I want to make sure I do while I'm here. There were a lot of snowmobile riders along the road, a few bald eagles but mostly quiet. I didn't listen to the radio or my ipod, just enjoyed the silence and the sound of my cars studded tires on the snow.

One of the great things about doing this adventure to Alaska alone is that I don't have to consult with anyone about my plans or get buy-in. As I got closer to Denali I realized that I wouldn't have time to explore the park unless I stayed overnight somewhere so I found a little roadside motel in Healy, just 12 miles past the national park entrance. More about that later.

After entering the park I followed the signs for the Winter Celebration. It was a small event. The Murie Science and Learning Center was open as was a reception area where visitors could have food and hot chocolate. The science center is adjacent to the area where Austin and other park concessionaire employees live during the tourist season and, as things would have it, the reception area was the cafeteria where he and I had our meals during my stay with him last summer. It still smelled like a cafeteria but it brought a smile to my face and proud mom tears to my eyes remembering my time with Austin last summer. My kids have led me to some great adventures and I am so glad that Austin led me to Alaska!

After looking around the science center, I decided to visit the sled dog kennels. After getting out of my car and walking up a road "fer a piece" I heard the dogs in the distance barking a bit. Before I knew what was happening the barks became howling that slowly built up from one or two dogs to what had to have been the entire group joining in. I started fumbling my near frozen hands in my pocket to retrieve my cell phone. I wanted Ryan to hear what I was hearing. February 21 is his birthday and I thought it would be wonderful to tell him during the call, of the beauty I was experiencing and attempting to share with him. By the time I was able to get the phone and make my fingers dial (without dropping the phone in the snow), the dogs were almost finished with their song. During our conversation, Kyla and Kelley called and Ryan conferenced us all together. It was good. Kelley had ridden one of his KLRs (Austin had the other) to Alaska last summer to ride back home with Austin after the tourist season was over. That makes 3 of us having been to Alaska. Now we've got to get Kyla, Alena and Ryan up here.

The dog houses are set down into the snow about 2 feet or so. Notice how they sit on top of their houses like sentries.

After visiting the dogs there was really not much else to do because I'd not really prepared for the trip (and it was getting dark) so I went to my motel room. The town of Healy was having a winter celebration of their own which included a chili feed and art show. As small town things may go, the art show was quite small but I spent a good amount of time talking with a photographer who has been in Alaska for 20 years. She moved from New Zealand and during the summer drives a tour bus. The chili feed was small and there were a lot of people there so I made the mistake of eating at the diner that was adjacent to the motel. It was true diner food and sat very heavy in my stomach throughout the night.

One of the reasons I'd decided to stay overnight near the park was so I could possibly see the Northern Lights. I'd read that the the best time to catch them is between 10 p.m. and 2 a.m. so before I fell asleep I set my alarm for 11 p.m.

I woke up when the alarm went off and looked out the window for a while. Nothing. I set my alarm for 1 a.m. I woke up when the alarm went off and looked out the window for a while. After a very short time, through the leafless trees, I saw what I can only describe as a fan of light starting from the horizon line and going up into the sky. I caught my breath...could this be it!

It was really cold and very windy outside so I wanted to be sure I was seeing what I thought I was seeing before I got all bundled up and went outside so I intently watched the sky through the trees. Ahh, it happened again! I scrambled to get dressed and bundled up. Boots, coat, hat, scarf, gloves, room key, then out the door I went. I decided it was nuts to stand out in below 10 degree weather with the wind howling so I sat in my car. What a smart lady I am...my car has a sunroof!

I sat in my car for 20 minutes and nothing more happened except that the wind kept howling and the snow kept swirling around. I'd not started the car because I didn't want to disturb people so after a while went back to my room. Once inside I went to the window to watch from the warmth of my room and I saw the fan of light again!! Every time I move my head there was a fan of light! What's going on, I wondered.

Well, didn't I feel silly and laugh out loud when I realized that the "fan of light" was caused somehow by the window itself. The snow whirling around might have added to the illusion but I certainly got a good laugh out of the whole thing. Those of you who know me won't be surprised by this event.

If I'd known, I might have prepared a little by visiting the Northern Lights forecast website: http://www.gedds.alaska.edu/AuroraForecast/. This is someone elses picture of what I didn't see:

Anyway, the next morning, just before sunrise, I left to go home. As before, the drive and scenery were wonderful.

The picture here was taken close to the Denali Park entrance. The river looks like it is frozen clean through.


The town picture is that of the boarded up shops of what is a bustling business area during the tourist season. When the season is over the street lights are turned off and the town is boarded up. There was a bit of construction going on though.

Also on the way home, several miles beyond the park entrance, I saw a couple small herds of caribou pawing in the snow for food, crossing the road and leaping through the snow. Before I realized they were caribou I was whisper narrating video on my camera saying "OK, I'm looking at a herd of moose...they're trying to find something to eat under the snow...". After I realized the animals were caribou, I felt quite stupid and didn't want anyone to ever see the video so I erased it, which was a shame because it was great footage, and decided to tell you all about it instead!

I was pulled over for close to 20 minutes, watching them.
It was a near-perfect first road trip.
I've enjoyed sharing with you!

Denali - View from Visitor Center August 2008